Re-Run: The Yin and Yang of Cambodia

I am re-posting this entry and soon a "Yin and Yang of Cambodia: Part 2" entry from last September because I have been receiving a new influx of readers and I don't expect anyone to trace back to my earlier entries (although those might be some of the best) that are foundational to my blog, to who I am, and to my future ministry.  Thanks for reading everyone!  I would love to read your thoughts and encouragement in the comments section.

The Yin and Yang of Cambodia

The Kingdom of Cambodia: a country with a history both inspiring and depressing, a fascinating nation where the future is still waiting to be shaped. Cambodia is charming, yet strangely disagreeable. You can ascend to the domain of the gods at the landmark temple, Angkor Wat, an impressive fusion of spirituality, symbolism, and symmetry; or you can descend into the hell of Tuol Sleng and witness the history of genocide and the Khmer Rouge. The beaches are beautiful, but lack the tide of tourism; the wilds are remote, and even less explored; the cuisine is delightful, but yet to be discovered.

Traveling through Cambodia reveals a vibrant palette of color. Rural rice fields shimmer like emeralds; Buddhist monks’ saffron robes glow in the sunlight. Cambodia’s ancient temples are erected from sandstone, and are cloaked in soft green moss or are dripped with light shadows. Khmer food is as stunning in color as it is in flavor, mixing green cucumbers, red chili peppers, yellow mangos, and white rice to create recipes that gratify even this particular American girl. But the people of Cambodia, their warmth and beautiful smiles, bring the most color of all.

Despite the beautiful scene, life is no picnic for the average Cambodian. It remains one of the poorest countries in Asia and it is a tough reality for much of the population, as they battle it out against the whims of nature, and sometimes of their politicians, who are known to illegally evict citizens from coveted land. Income remains desperately low for many Khmers, with annual wages in the hundreds of dollars, not thousands, and public servants such as teachers are unable to eke out a living on their meager salaries.

Yet there is hope for the
Kingdom of Cambodia. There are two faces in Cambodia, and while one is dark and gloomy, the other is shiny and promising. For nearly every illegally established brothel, there will be a new NGO school offering better education, or a new clean-water initiative to improve the lives of the average villagers. Such is the yin and yang of Cambodia, a country that both inspires and dismays.

Love love love, Jewel

City, Countryside, and Between

Although I'm more likely to end up settling in the big and busy capital city of Phnom Penh, this is the Cambodia I love -- the countryside. Traditional architecture includes the stilt house, built with a wooden frame and a steep thatched roof overhanging the walls. These stilt houses are up to 9 feet off the ground to protect against floods, while providing shelter for the family's domestic animals below the house.

Angkor Wat is a temple complex in Siem Reap, built for the king in the early 12th century as his state temple and capital city. The above picture was taken at Bayon, my favorite temple at Angkor Wat. The temple complex is absolutely phenomenal; in fact, it's one of the wonders of the ancient world. Around five hours from Phnom Penh, Cambodians have much pride in Angkor Wat, and it is even featured on the Cambodian flag. You can anticipate an entire post dedicated to Angkor Wat in the semi-near future..

Like in any nation, life in the city certainly contrasts life in the country. This scene is typical in Phnom Penh, where houses are built small, but upwards. Phnom Penh, meaning "full mountain," was known in the 1920s as the "Pearl of Asia." The capital is the wealthiest and most populous city in Cambodia, home to more than two million of Cambodia's population of over fourteen million. It is home to the country's political hub, and is a significant global and domestic tourist destination.

Khmer sunsets are stunning. When I lived at the WBI, I was blessed with an incredible view of the West and was amazed to see the sun set early every evening.

Love love love, Jewel

The Eastern Culture

I'm continually trying to learn more about Cambodia and the worldview of the Khmer (Cambodians). Here are some funny - but true - descriptions of the differences between the Western and Eastern cultures. I apologize for not giving due credit for these pictures; I saved them many months ago.

Western/Cambodian:


Handling Problems:

View of self:

Lining up:

Way of living:

In two visits, I have already seen at least a small glimpse of each of these characteristics in Cambodian culture. After only a few minutes on Cambodian soil, I experienced "lining up" in a crowd of mostly oriental men at the visa station. There was a long counter, with two crowds of people - one at each end. I remained waiting at the back of the cluster, until I finally realized that the only way to reach the front was to attach myself to the person in front of me, and although we were not in a succinct line, everyone in the group always knew who was next. I finally reached the counter, handed them $20 and my passport, then moved to the back of the next crowd. Then when my name was called, the sea of people parted and I continued forward.

I still have much to learn...

Love love love, Jewel

The Yin and Yang of Cambodia Con't...

For many older Cambodians, life is centered on family, faith, and food – a timeless existence that still remains after centuries of change. Family is more than the nuclear family that we now recognize in America; it is the extended family of third cousins and obscure aunts – as long as there is a bloodline, there is a bond. Families stick together, solve problems collectively, listen to the wisdom of the elders, and pool resources. The extended family comes together during times of delight and times of difficulty, celebrating festivals and accomplishments, mourning deaths and disappointments. Whether the Cambodian house is great or small, there will be a lot of people living within the four walls (and maybe even under the floor).

Faith is another rock in the lives of the many older Cambodians, and Buddhism has helped them to rebuild their lives after the devastating effects of the Khmer Rouge. Most Cambodian houses contain a small golden shrine to pray for luck; and on Buddha Day, the wats are flooded with the faithful. Buddhist monks perform a number of essential functions in Cambodian life; they participate in all formal village festivals, ceremonies, marriages, and funerals. Wats are not only the moral-religious center of village communities, but serve important educational, cultural, and social functions as well. In earlier years, the temples were the main establishments of learning, with schools and libraries where the Khmer culture and language was preserved and transmitted from generation to generation.

Food is more important to Cambodia than to most, as they have tasted what it is like to be without. Famine stalked the country in the late 1970s; and even today, malnutrition and food shortages are common during frequent times of drought. For country folk (still the majority of the Cambodian population), their life is their fields. Farmers are attached to their land, their very survival is dependant upon it, and the harvest cycle dictates the rhythm of rural life.

For the young generation, brought up in a post-conflict, post-communist period of relative freedom, it is a different story – arguably thanks to their steady consumption of MTV and dramatized American soap operas. Cambodia is experiencing its own ‘60s swing, as the younger generation stands up for a lifestyle very different from the one their parents have accepted as orthodox. This creates plenty of feisty friction in cities like Phnom Penh, where rebellious teens dress as they please, date who they want, and hit the town until late hours of the night. But few actually live on their own; they still come home to ma and pa at the end of the day (and the arguments start again.)

Photos credited to my friends Phalkun and Janell, Titus, and Rolitess.

Love love love, Jewel

The Yin and Yang of Cambodia

The Kingdom of Cambodia: a country with a history both inspiring and depressing, a fascinating nation where the future is still waiting to be shaped. Cambodia is charming, yet strangely disagreeable. You can ascend to the domain of the gods at the landmark temple, Angkor Wat, an impressive fusion of spirituality, symbolism, and symmetry; or you can descend into the hell of Tuol Sleng and witness the history of genocide and the Khmer Rouge. The beaches are beautiful, but lack the tide of tourism; the wilds are remote, and even less explored; the cuisine is delightful, but yet to be discovered.

Traveling through Cambodia reveals a vibrant palette of color. Rural rice fields shimmer like emeralds; Buddhist monks’ saffron robes glow in the sunlight. Cambodia’s ancient temples are erected from sandstone, and are cloaked in soft green moss or are dripped with light shadows. Khmer food is as stunning in color as it is in flavor, mixing green cucumbers, red chili peppers, yellow mangos, and white rice to create recipes that gratify even this particular American girl. But the people of Cambodia, their warmth and beautiful smiles, bring the most color of all.

Despite the beautiful scene, life is no picnic for the average Cambodian. It remains one of the poorest countries in Asia and it is a tough reality for much of the population, as they battle it out against the whims of nature, and sometimes of their politicians, who are known to illegally evict citizens from coveted land. Income remains desperately low for many Khmers, with annual wages in the hundreds of dollars, not thousands, and public servants such as teachers are unable to eke out a living on their meager salaries.

Yet there is hope for the
Kingdom of Cambodia. There are two faces in Cambodia, and while one is dark and gloomy, the other is shiny and promising. For nearly every illegally established brothel, there will be a new NGO school offering better education, or a new clean-water initiative to improve the lives of the average villagers. Such is the yin and yang of Cambodia, a country that both inspires and dismays.

Photos credited to my friends Bunnath, Aaron, and Ptr. Poleak.

Love love love, Jewel